Listen, Tobias. You really rocked me. I cannot get that kind of scald at home.

This glorious golden goodness is the fried chicken main at Mamie Taylor's, a Chinatown newcomer and purveyor of self-described "Modern American" food. My friend Jody and I went and shared a little bit of everything.

Styled like a gentleman's club of yore, that particular 1860s shade of dark green on the walls, exposed brick and a handful of vintage taxidermied animals ranging from ducks to bobcats, I love the look but feared an unfriendly hipster lair. However it is charmingly run by friendly dudes who couldn't wait to seat us and prop my friend's broken and casted leg on a chair, and then sign it. You gotta love a place that will sign your cast.

My grandparents were from the prairies, and anyone from there knows about that crystal dish with three compartments that's set out every single solitary time you have guests with pearl onions, gherkins and olives. I'm pleased to report that Mamie's offers a high-end version of this on just-low-end enough plates to take me back home. We started with blue-cheese stuffed and fried olives and deviled eggs, a more complexly flavoured and textured version of the kind grandma took to church. Who says you can't go home again.

A rich, smoky terrine of fois gras was our second dish. A little goes a long way for this one, take your time and eat slowly while sipping your cocktail. And speaking of cocktails, they are like the food, a bit of a modern edge but still using the tried and true.

The crown jewel was the aforementioned fried chicken, which is prepared sous vide, breaded twice and served with chunky watermelon fries and honeyed corn bread. I can't pick up the mixture of the breading, but there is strong notes of oregano and crunch enough to make you hope it will never end. Which it did. After I ate my share and Jody's too. I would get some before I eat it all, if I were you.

Mamie Taylor's
251 E. Georgia Street



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